A comfortable night at Maxwell's

RON SWARNER: MAXWELL'S VIP OPENING >>>

Only one thing is guaranteed true at a restaurant's opening night: No other night will bear any resemblance to it in terms of service, menu, music, vibe, attitude, anything. I've seen restaurants bring in guest chefs for openings, hire mercenary servers and bartenders to crutch up their floor staffs, cook menus with absolutely no relation to what will eventually be the daily board of fare.

Not the case at last night's Maxwell's Speakeasy + Lounge invitation-only opening.

Maxwell's theme is Northwest comfort food. And the comfort was spread thick last night. Yes, proprietors Troy Christian and Sean Quinn, who helped launch Asado and Masa on Sixth Avenue, packed Maxwell's with dignitaries from the city, county, the arts and the restaurant scene.  And the duo diligently created happiness even though the final touches — wall art, stocked bar, full menu — were absent (not a shock since 10 people were still in construction mode at 4 a.m. yesterday). Still, everyone was at ease, chatting, drinking, and nibbling on steak tartar and prawns. It felt more like a cocktail party than a restaurant opening.  And comfort will ultimately make Maxwell's a success. Mark my word.

I will skip the specifics since Natasha nailed it this week's in the Weekly Volcano. 

I will say I'm eager to sample the menu. Peppercorn Rib Steak hits the ceiling at $32. The remaining items will not only capture the special occasion crowd due to the innovative dishes, atmosphere and valet parking, but grab those eager to eat out after Art Walk, a movie or the symphony without refinancing.  Espresso & Porcini Dusted Beef Tender with roasted mirepoix ($14), Apple Wood Smoked Pulled Pork Sandwich on grilled ciabatta ($11), NW Organic Beet Salad with smoked hazelnuts ($9), "Classic" French Walla Walla Onion Soup ($7), artisan cheese flights in $3 single or $9 for four servings, and Oregon Blue Cheesecake with fried sage ($8) entice.  They also offer sides to share — Grilled Young Broccoli, Bombay Sapphire Fried Onion Rings (yes please!), Herb Flecked Pappardelle Pasta, eight in all — in the $5 to $8 range.

Enough jabbering — here are a few shots I snapped last night.

Maxwell's Speakeasy + Lounge is still scheduled to open Wednesday at the corner of Sixth and St. Helens Avenue. I will spend many comfortable nights there.